Ford F-150 tires

Ford F-150 Tires: Sizes, Load Ratings, PSI & Fitment Guide

Most Ford F-150s leave the factory within these technical ranges: 17- 22" wheel diameters, 245–315 mm widths, and 30.5" to 35"+ overall tire diameters (reaching 37" on Raptor R models). Your exact “stock” baseline is always found on the driver-door tire placard, which should be cross-referenced with the specs printed on your current sidewall.

Here’s how those specs vary across the F-150 lineup:

• XL / Work-Truck Setups: Commonly use 17" wheels with taller sidewalls (ex., 245/70R17). These "no-drama" sizes prioritize load-carrying reliability and ride comfort over aesthetic flair.
• XLT / Lariat Daily Drivers: Often feature 18-20" wheels with balanced widths (like the standard 275/60R20). This provides a crisp steering feel and highway stability without a punishing ride.
• Appearance / Luxury Packages (Platinum & Limited): Typically run 20-22" wheels with shorter sidewalls. These look sharp and improve cornering response, but you will feel road imperfections and potholes more acutely.
• Off-Road Packages (Tremor & Raptor): These trims prioritize maximum sidewall height on 17-18" wheels. The extra rubber (up to 315 mm wide) acts as a secondary shock absorber for ruts and washboard roads and allows for "airing down" on soft terrain.

Ford F-150 Technical Reference Data:

• Bolt Pattern: 6x135 mm (2004 - Present)
• Lug Nut Torque: 150 lb-ft (204 Nm)
• TPMS Type: Direct-Sensor System

To view the factory tire sizes and technical baselines for your specific trim, select your F-150 Year.

The Ford F-150 Load: P-Metric vs. LT

On an F-150, the tire’s load rating is a critical safety spec because this platform is engineered for high-utility tasks: bed payload, heavy tongue weights, and family transport. Your goal is to select a tire with a Load Index that matches or exceeds your truck’s Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR), found on the driver-side door jamb.

What Changes the Load Demand on an F-150:

• Bed Payload: The rear tires feel this weight immediately. A standard half-ton load can push a passenger tire toward its maximum deflection point.
• Trailer Tongue Weight: This creates a "lever effect." 800 lbs of tongue weight doesn't just add 800 lbs to the truck; it exerts significantly more force on the rear tires while slightly unloading the front axle.
• Higher-Speed Highway Towing: Heat is the enemy of capacity. A tire running at its limit under a heavy trailer builds heat rapidly, making a "capacity margin" your best friend.

Choosing between P-Metric vs. LT-Metric

Most F-150s leave the factory on P-Metric (Passenger) tires to maximize fuel economy and comfort. However, "real work" often requires an upgrade to LT (Light Truck) tires.

NeoTires Tip: When a P-Metric tire is used on a F-150 pickup truck, its load capacity is technically derated by 9% (divided by 1.1) to account for the truck's higher center of gravity. If a tire is rated for 2,500 lbs on a car, it is only rated for 2,272 lbs on your F-150.

What F-150 Drivers Should Choose: 

• P-Metric (daily commuting): If you rarely tow more than a jet ski and use your truck as a family vehicle, stick with P-Metric. You’ll enjoy a quieter cabin and better EcoBoost MPG.
• LT-Metric (workhorse tasks): If you tow a travel trailer, drive on sharp-rock job sites, or want a more stable "work truck" feel, the upgrade is worth it. Switching to LT tires means you must adjust your habits. LT tires require higher pressures (often 45–55 PSI) to safely carry the same load that a P-metric tire carries at 35 PSI.

See if your trim came factory-equipped with P-Metric or LT tires. Select your F-150 Year to view original load specs.

Choosing Between Load Ranges: C vs D vs E

If you decide to go with an LT (Light Truck) tire for your F-150, you must choose an appropriate Load Range between C, D or E. Think of this as the tire's "backbone" strength: 

If your F-150 is a frequent tow rig, a higher load range can feel more planted, with less rear “squirm,” less trailer push feeling, and better heat control.

Payload capacities vary significantly by generation. Select your F-150 Year to see which load range matches your truck’s Max Tow rating.

Ford F-150 PSI Ranges: Daily Driving, Rear Support, LT Towing

The exact number for your truck is printed on the B-Pillar tire placard (the sticker inside the driver-side door jamb). This is the "Cold Inflation Pressure" engineered for your specific trim, engine, and factory tire combo.

The Daily Driving Baseline

For 90% of F-150s, the factory spec is 35 PSI (Cold). This is the "Goldilocks" zone for the EcoBoost and 5.0L V8 platforms - it provides enough cushion for ride comfort while maintaining a footprint that maximizes fuel economy.

• The 41 PSI Exception: Newer heavy-payload or FX4 packages (2024 - 2026) often specify 41 PSI to handle the increased curb weight of hybrid batteries or off-road components. Always defer to the door sticker of your truck. 

The "LT-Metric Swap" Pressure Rule

If you have upgraded from factory P-metric tires to LT (Load Range E) tires, the door sticker no longer applies.

To carry the same weight as a P-metric tire at 35 PSI, an LT tire typically needs 42-45 PSI. To find your perfect daily PSI for an aftermarket LT tire, draw a thick chalk line across the tread and drive 50 feet. If the chalk wears off in the middle only, your pressure is too high. If it stays in the middle, it's too low.

Rear Support: Pressure for Towing & Hauling

When the bed is full or a trailer is hitched, the rear tires experience Sidewall Deflection. This is where the tire "squats," causing the tread to wrap upward and the sidewalls to overheat.

• P-Metric Tires: Increase rear pressure to 38-40 PSI when towing or hauling (never exceed the "Max Press" on the sidewall, typically 44 PSI). 
• LT Tires (Load Range C/D): Increase rear pressure to 50-65 PSI when towing a heavy travel trailer.
•  LT Tires (Load Range E): Increase rear pressure to 65-80 PSI for maximum towing capacity or heavy payloads. This stiffens the tire's "vertical spring rate," which kills trailer sway before it starts.

Signs Your F-150 PSI is Incorrect Under Load:

• The "Floaty" Rear: If the back of the truck feels like it’s drifting or "wallowing" on highway curves, your rear tires are under-inflated for the load.
• Vague Steering: If the front feels "light" or disconnected, the rear tires are likely bulging too much, which alters the truck's rake and steering geometry.
• Inter-ply Shear (Extreme Heat): If the sidewalls are hot to the touch after a pull, the tire is flexing too much. This leads to internal damage that a TPMS sensor might not catch until it's too late.

Door sticker pressures changed when Ford moved to the aluminum body in 2015. Select your F-150 Year for the exact cold PSI spec.

Ford F-150 Tire Types That Fit the Truck (H/T, A/T, R/T)

Most F-150 tire shopping fits into three distinct "buckets." Choosing the wrong one doesn't just affect grip - it can cost you 1 - 3 MPG and significantly increase cabin noise.

Highway-Terrain (H/T): The Efficiency Expert

• Best For: 90%+ pavement driving, long-distance interstate towing, and city commuting.
• The F-150 Experience: These are the quietest tires available. They feature a "closed shoulder" design that traps noise under the tire rather than letting it escape.
• The Advantage: Lowest rolling resistance. On an EcoBoost F-150, switching from a heavy off-road tire back to an H/T can often recover 2 MPG.

All-Terrain (A/T): The "Do-Everything" Sweet Spot

• Best For: Mixed driving (70% road / 30% dirt), weekend camping, and snowy climates.
• The F-150 Experience: This is the most popular choice for F-150 owners because it fills the wheel well better and looks "truck-like" without the massive noise penalty of a mud tire.
• Technical Tip: Look for the Three-Peak Mountain Snowflake (3PMSF) symbol on A/T tires. This indicates they are legally rated for severe snow, making them a true year-round solution for northern F-150 owners.

Rugged-Terrain (R/T): The Modern Hybrid

• Best For: Job sites, sharp gravel roads, and owners who want the "Mud-Tire Look" with better highway manners.
• The F-150 Experience: R/T tires are a hybrid between an All-Terrain and a Mud-Terrain. They feature large "scalloped" shoulders to dig into mud but have a tighter center tread to stay stable at 75 MPH.
• The Trade-off: These are significantly heavier (often 10 - 15 lbs more per tire than an H/T). This "unsprung weight" makes the F-150 suspension work harder and can slightly slow down your 0 - 60 mph acceleration.

Looking for the best-rated tires for your specific model? Select your F-150 Year to see the top H/T and A/T picks for your rim size.

Ford F-150 Bolt Pattern and Wheel Fitment Basics

Most modern Ford F-150s (2004-Present) use a 6x135mm bolt pattern. While this has remained a constant for two decades, wheel fitment is highly sensitive to the truck's suspension geometry and safety hardware.

Key Technical Pillars for F-150 Fitment:

• Hub Centricity (87.1mm Bore): The F-150 is a hub-centric design. This means the wheel is centered by the center bore of the hub, not the lug nuts. When shopping for aftermarket wheels, ensure they have an 87.1mm hub bore or use high-quality hub-centric rings to prevent high-speed vibrations.
• Offset & Backspacing: This determines how far the wheel "pokes" out.
• Positive Offset (+44mm standard F-150 / +34mm Raptor): Factory standard. Keeps the tire tucked under the fender and protected from road debris. Most F-150 trims use +44mm; Raptor models use +34mm for wider stance.
• Negative Offset (e.g., -12mm or -24mm): Pushes the wheel out for a wider stance. On a stock F-150, moving to a negative offset often causes the tire to strike the front and rear crash bars at full steering lock.
• Lug Nut Torque (150 lb-ft): The F-150 uses a heavy-duty M14 x 1.5 thread. Under-torquing can lead to wheel separation, while over-torquing can warp the brake rotors on the aluminum knuckles.

The "Full-Lock Rub" Warning

A classic recipe for fitment failure on this platform is pairing a wider tire (like a 305/55R20) with a low-offset wheel. Factory offsets (+44mm for standard F-150, +34mm for Raptor) are engineered specifically to avoid crash bar interference. Moving to 0mm or negative offset wheels pushes tires outward into safety components.

On 2015+ models, this setup almost always interferes with the high-strength steel crash bars - critical safety components that Ford engineers designed to protect the cabin during a frontal offset collision.

While the 6x135mm pattern is common, offsets shifted with the 2021 redesign. Select your F-150 Year to confirm your hub-centric specs.

Ford F-150 Lug Nut Torque and the “Re-Torque” Habit

Most modern F-150s (2015 - 2026) specify a lug nut torque of 150 lb-ft (204 Nm). Because the F-150 uses a heavy-duty M14 x 1.5 thread pitch, achieving this exact clamping force is essential to prevent rotor warping and stud fatigue.

The Tightening Process:

• The Star Pattern: Always tighten in a 6-lug "star" sequence to ensure the wheel seat centers perfectly against the hub.
• Two-Step Torque: Do not hit 150 lb-ft in one go. Tighten to 80 lb-ft first to seat the wheel, then do a final pass at 150 lb-ft.
• The 50-Mile Re-Torque: Aluminum wheels can undergo "thermal cycling" - slight expansion and contraction - when you first drive them. Always re-check the torque after the first 50 - 100 miles following a rotation or swap, especially if you are heading out to tow.

Torque specs aren't universal; older generations differ from modern M14 studs. Select your F-150 Year for your exact lb-ft requirement.

Ford F-150 Plus-Sizing Rules (Wheel Diameter Changes)

When changing wheel sizes of an F-150 (for example, swapping 18s for 22s), the goal is "Plus-Sizing": increasing the rim diameter while reducing sidewall height to maintain the same overall tire diameter.

The "Electronic" Limits:

• The "No-Tune" Zone (+/-3% Change): You can typically increase tire diameter by up to1 inch (~3%) without major issues. The speedometer will be slightly off, but the ABS and transmission will cope.
• The Calibration Zone (>5% Change): If you jump from a stock 32" to a 35" tire (a ~9% difference), you MUST recalibrate the speedometer using a tool like FORScan or a handheld programmer.
• Risk: Without calibration, the 10-speed transmission shift points will be out of sync, causing "gear hunting" and a significant loss of felt power.
• The 4WD Warning: Never run different overall tire diameters on the front and rear axles. In 4x4 mode, a variance of just 0.5 inches can cause the transfer case to bind or the IWE hubs to grind.

What F-150 Owners Usually Feel:

• 18" → 20": The modern standard. You gain tighter steering response and less "sidewall rollover" in corners.
• 20" → 22"+: The "Street Truck" zone. You get a sharp aesthetic, but you lose significant sidewall cushion (potholes feel harsher) and rim protection.
• Heavier Steering: Wider tires increase the "scrub radius," making low-speed parking maneuvers feel heavier.

Ensure your new diameter doesn't throw off your speedometer. Select your F-150 Year to see approved plus-size equivalents.

Maximum Tire Size for Stock F-150 Suspension

In the F-150 community, "Will it fit?" usually refers to the 33-inch vs. 35-inch debate. For a truck with no lift or leveling kit, 33 inches is the guaranteed no-rub limit, while 34 inches is the absolute maximum with acceptable minor contact at full steering lock.

The Fitment Rules by Tolerance:

• Zero-Rub Guarantee (33"): The safe maximum is 275/60R20 or 275/70R18 (both roughly 33.2") on 4x4 models. These clear completely with zero modifications. Acceptable-Rub Maximum (34"): You can fit a 295/60R20 (34") on factory wheels, but expect minor contact with the frame or sway bar at full steering lock during parking maneuvers. This is the true "maximum" before requiring a leveling kit.
• 4x2 (RWD) Models: Because these sit ~2" lower in the front, the safe limit drops to a 31.5" or 32" tire. Attempting a 33" tire on a stock 2WD often requires trimming the plastic front air dam.
• The 35-inch Myth: You cannot fit true 35x12.50 tires on a stock F-150 without a leveling kit. Even with a level, 35s usually require high-offset factory wheels to avoid the crash bars.

Factors That Kill Your Clearance:

• Wheel Offset: Moving from factory wheels (+44mm) to "flush" wheels (0mm or +1mm) pushes the tire into the crash bars.
• Tire Width: A 12.5" wide tire will rub the Upper Control Arm (UCA) on factory wheels; a narrower 11.5" (285mm) tire provides more breathing room.
• Suspension Compression: A tire may clear in the driveway but strike the fender liner during "braking dive" or when hitting a speed bump while turning.

If you want a "set it and forget it" upgrade with zero trimming or vibration for your F-150, stick to a 33" tire (275/60R20). It provides a rugged look without the mechanical issues.

Wheel well depth and crash bar placement vary by generation. Select your F-150 Year to see the largest tire confirmed to fit your stock setup.

F-150 35-Inch Tire Fitment: Crossing the "Stock" Limit

If the 34-inch tire is the maximum for a stock truck, the 35-inch tire is the benchmark for a leveled F-150. Moving to 35s is a "commitment" setup; it transitions the truck from a factory feel to a modified off-road build.

The Three Dependencies for 35s:

• Leveling Height: You generally need a 2-inch to 2.5-inch front level just to clear the fender height. Without this, a 35" tire will strike the wheel well arch.
• The Offset Rule: This is the #1 cause of failure. 35s fit best on factory wheels (+44mm offset) because they stay tucked away from the crash bars. If you use "deep dish" or negative offset wheels, you will almost certainly have to cut or remove your safety crash bars to turn the steering wheel.
• Tire Width: A 35x11.50 tire is the "cheat code." That extra half-inch of clearance from the suspension components often makes the difference between "zero rub" and "constant rubbing."

The Trade-offs

If you use your F-150 for towing or heavy hauling, 35-inch tires act like a "higher gear," which changes the truck's physics:

• Power Loss: You will feel a 10 - 12% drop in effective torque at the wheels. If you have a 3.31 or 3.55 rear gear ratio, the truck may feel "sluggish" off the line with a trailer.
• Braking Effort: The significant increase in rotational weight (unsprung mass) means your brakes have to work harder. Expect slightly longer stopping distances.
• Calibration: Your speedometer will be off by roughly 5 - 8%. You will need a tool like FORScan or a dedicated calibrator to fix your shift points and MPH reading.
• The "Raptor" Shortcut: Many F-150 owners buy Raptor take-off wheels and tires (315/70R17). Because these are Ford-engineered with a +34mm offset, they often fit a leveled F-150 more cleanly than almost any aftermarket 35-inch combo.

35s rub differently on a 2014 vs. a 2024. Select your F-150 Year for a fitment breakdown of leveling heights and offsets.

Ford F-150 Tire Wear & Longevity

F-150 tire life is a product of geometry and discipline. Because the F-150 uses an Independent Front Suspension (IFS), even minor height changes or worn components can ruin a new set of tires in under 5,000 miles.

Common F-150 Wear Patterns & Causes

• Outer Shoulder Wear: The #1 issue after installing an F-150 leveling kit. Raising the front creates Positive Camber (tilting the tops of the tires out). You must align the truck immediately after any suspension work.
• Feathering (Sawtooth): Caused by Toe misalignment. If your front tires are "pigeon-toed," they drag sideways across the pavement, creating sharp, uneven edges on the tread blocks.
• Cupping (Dipped Scoops): Usually a sign of worn shocks/struts. If your F-150 bounces excessively, the tire "jumps" down the road, causing scooped-out bald spots.
• Center Wear: A classic sign of over-inflation. If you run "empty" but keep your tires at max towing PSI, the middle of the tread will bald prematurely.

The F-150 Longevity Checklist

1. Alignment Post-Leveling: Don't just "toe-and-go." Ask your shop for a Camber Bolt Kit if they can't get your leveled truck back to factory specifications.
2. The 5,000-Mile Rotation: F-150s are RWD-biased. The rear tires handle the torque, while the fronts handle the steering stress. Use a Forward Cross rotation pattern to balance the load.
3. Towing Heat Management: Under-inflated tires flex excessively under a trailer, creating internal heat that "cooks" the rubber compound. Maintain higher rear PSI to prevent Thermal Fatigue.

Identify the highest-mileage tires confirmed for your trim and rim size. Select your F-150 Year.